Affiliation:
1. CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina–Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua de Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
2. Amyris Bio Products Portugal, Rua de Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
Abstract
The encapsulation of retinol within silica microparticles has emerged as a promising opportunity in the realm of cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, driven by the need to reinforce the photoprotection and oxidation stability of retinol. This work examines the process of encapsulating retinol into silica microparticles. The association efficiency, microparticle size, molecular structure, morphology, oxidation, and release profile, as well as biocompatibility and skin sensitization, were evaluated. Results showed that 0.03% of retinol and 9% of emulsifier leads to an association efficiency higher than 99% and a particle size with an average of 5.2 µm. FTIR results indicate that there is an association of retinol with the silica microparticles, and some may be on the surface. Microscopy indicates that when association happens, there is less aggregation of the particles. Oxidation occurs in two different phases, the first related to the retinol on the surface and the second to the associated retinol. In addition, a burst release of up to 3 h (30% free retinol, 17% associated retinol) was observed, as well as a sustained release of 44% of retinol up to 24 h. Encapsulation allowed an increase in the minimal skin cytotoxic concentrations of retinol from 0.04 μg/mL to 1.25 mg/mL without skin sensitization. Overall, retinol is protected when associated with silica microparticles, being safe to use in cosmetics and dermatology.