Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products

Author:

Marques Cíntia1,Hadjab Farid2,Porcello Alexandre1ORCID,Lourenço Kelly1,Scaletta Corinne3,Abdel-Sayed Philippe34ORCID,Hirt-Burri Nathalie3ORCID,Applegate Lee Ann356ORCID,Laurent Alexis378ORCID

Affiliation:

1. Development Department, LOUNA REGENERATIVE SA, CH-1207 Geneva, Switzerland

2. Development Department, Albomed GmbH, D-90592 Schwarzenbruck, Germany

3. Regenerative Therapy Unit, Lausanne University Hospital, University of Lausanne, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland

4. STI School of Engineering, Federal Polytechnic School of Lausanne, CH-1015 Lausanne, Switzerland

5. Center for Applied Biotechnology and Molecular Medicine, University of Zurich, CH-8057 Zurich, Switzerland

6. Oxford OSCAR Suzhou Center, Oxford University, Suzhou 215123, China

7. Manufacturing Department, LAM Biotechnologies SA, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland

8. Manufacturing Department, TEC-PHARMA SA, CH-1038 Bercher, Switzerland

Abstract

Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the “Kligman standards” in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide’s therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient’s evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

Publisher

MDPI AG

Reference128 articles.

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3. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin;Bissett;Int. J. Cosmet. Sci.,2004

4. (2023, December 04). Niacin—Health Professional Fact Sheet, Available online: https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Niacin-HealthProfessional/.

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