Abstract
Two‐dimensional (2D) cell culture is an important tool in the discovery of skin‐active agents. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes, more rarely fibroblast–keratinocyte cocultures, are usually used for that purpose, where test compounds are added by mixing with the overlaying growth medium. However, such an approach is suboptimal because it lacks the stratum corneum component. The stratum corneum acts as a selective gatekeeper and opposes the intradermal permeation of many compounds that are bioactive when placed in direct contact with cells. One solution is to use reconstituted epidermis, but this approach is costly and time consuming. Here, a model is proposed, where the simplicity and convenience of the 2D cell culture is combined with the advantage of a hydrophobic barrier reminiscent of the skin horny layer. This model was tested with skin‐relevant solvents, as well as with “naked” hydrophilic and encapsulated compounds. Cell viability and collagen stimulation were used as readouts. The results showed that the incorporation of a stratum corneum–substitute barrier on top of a 2D cell culture reduced the cytotoxicity of a common cosmetic solvent, dimethyl isosorbide (DMI), in cell culture and modified the bioactivity of the added actives (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate [MAP] and oligomeric proanthocyanidins [OPCs]/levan biopolymer), which became dependent on their ability to penetrate through a lipidic layer. Taken together, these results indicate a better physiological relevance of this cell culture model in workflows aimed at the discovery and analysis of skin‐active compounds than conventional 2D systems.