Nanostructured Ethosomal Gel Loaded with Arctostaphylos uva-ursi extract; In-vitro/In-vivo Evaluation as a Cosmeceutical Product

Abstract

Background: Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (AUU) being rich in polyphenols and arbutin is known to have promising biological activities and can be a potential candidate as a cosmaceutical. Ethosomes encourage the formation of lamellar-shaped vesicles with improved solubility and entrapment of many drugs including plant extracts. Objective: The objective of this work was to develop an optimized nanostructured ethosomal gel formulation loaded with AUU extract and evaluated for skin rejuvenation and depigmentation. Methods: AUU extract was tested for phenolic and flavonoid content, radical scavenging potential, reducing power activity, and in-vitro SPF (sun protection factor) estimation. AUU loaded 12 formulations were prepared and characterized by SEM (scanning electron microscopy), vesicular size, zeta potential, and entrapment efficiency (%EE). The optimized formulation was subjected to non-invasive in-vivo investigations after incorporating it into the gel system and ensuring its stability and skin permeation. Results: Ethosomal vesicles were spherical in shape and Zeta size, zeta potential, PDI (polydispersity index), % EE and in-vitro skin permeation of optimized formulation (F3) were found to be 114.7nm, -18.9mV, 0.492, 97.51±0.023%, and 79.88±0.013% respectively. AUU loaded ethosomal gel formulation was stable physicochemically and exhibited non-Newtonian behavior rheologically. Moreover, it significantly reduced skin erythema, melanin as well as sebum level and improved skin hydration and elasticity. Conclusion: A stable AUU based ethosomal gel formulation could be a better vehicle for phytoextracts than conventional formulations for cosmeceutical applications such as for skin rejuvenation and depigmentation etc.