A Compound Essential Oil Alters Stratum Corneum Structure, Potentially Promoting the Transdermal Permeation of Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Ingredients

Author:

Yang Na1,Ai Xinyi2ORCID,Cheng Kang1,Wu Yihan2,Lu Zhi1,Liu Zhenda2,Guo Teng2,Feng Nianping2

Affiliation:

1. Department of Pharmacy, Shanghai Inoherb Cosmetics Co. LTD, Shanghai 200444, China

2. Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, School of Pharmacy, Shanghai University of Traditional Chinese Medicine, Shanghai 201203, China

Abstract

Background: The stratum corneum (SC) is the main barrier of the skin, and cosmeceuticals are different from ordinary cosmetics in that they need to deliver active ingredients targeting specific skin problems through the SC into the deeper layers of the skin. Thus, we designed a compound essential oil (CEO) extracted from Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge and Cinnamomum cassia Presl, supplemented with borneol to deliver active ingredients through the SC. Methods: The CEO was prepared by flash extraction combined with the microwave method. Moreover, the main components of the CEO were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS). Visualization techniques, such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM), haematoxylin-eosin (HE) staining, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), were used to study the permeationpromoting mechanism of the CEO on the skin. Furthermore, the permeation-promoting effects of the CEO on both hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients were tested via in vitro skin penetration experiments and in vivo microdialysis experiments. Results: The results indicated the ability of the CEO to alter the structure of the SC, leading to enhanced transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. The 1.5% CEO group demonstrated the best permeation-promoting effect compared to the other CEO groups and blank groups (P<0.05). Furthermore, the CEO displayed an expedited permeability-promoting effect on hydrophobic ingredients compared to hydrophilic ingredients. Conclusion: It is concluded that the prepared CEO can promote the transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. This study will provide a reference for the application of the prepared CEO in the development of cosmeceuticals with natural efficacy.

Funder

National Natural Science Foundation of China

Publisher

Bentham Science Publishers Ltd.

Subject

Pharmaceutical Science

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