Acetyl zingerone methyl ether protects hair against oxidative damage incurred during and after treatment with permanent dyes and helps extend longevity of newly developed hair colour

Abstract

AbstractBackgroundUse of permanent hair dyes causes unintended oxidative damage during the short time frame of the dyeing process that leads to perceivable changes in the feel, manageability and appearance of hair. Moreover, after hair has been dyed, regular exposure to the sun as a key environmental stressor continues to stimulate additional oxidative damage and to induce newly developed hair colours to fade prematurely or undergo changes in colour quality.ObjectiveTo document the utility of acetyl zingerone methyl ether (MAZ) as a newly designed haircare ingredient to afford extra protection against oxidative damage and safeguard the integrity of hair colour.ResultsWe demonstrate that MAZ is compatible chemically with the high alkaline conditions required for the colouring process and from theoretical calculations preferentially binds Fe and Cu ions relative to Ca or Zn ions. In model Fenton reactions MAZ effectively chelated active redox metals (Fe and Cu ions) in the presence of excess Ca+2 ions to inhibit the production of hydroxyl radicals, and in separate studies, MAZ neutralized singlet oxygen with greater efficiency than α‐tocopherol by a factor of 2.5. When mixed into permanent dyes prior to hair tress application, MAZ significantly reduced combing forces, and SEM images led to substantial reductions in visual signs of surface damage. In a 28‐day clinical study, relative to controls, mixing MAZ into hair dyes prior to application interfered neither with colour development nor with ability to cover grey hair and led to significant improvements in perceived attributes associated with hair's condition immediately following the dyeing process. Over a 28‐day maintenance phase, especially between Day 14 and Day 28, continued use of shampoo and conditioner containing MAZ significantly preserved gloss measurements and hair colour in terms of longevity and colour quality as remaining desired and fresh compared to use of control shampoo and conditioner.ConclusionThis work establishes MAZ as a next‐generation hair care ingredient for use in permanent dyes to attenuate oxidative damage and in shampoos and conditioners to promote longevity of hair colour and to maintain overall health and appearance of hair on a daily basis.