Enzymatically modified isoquercitrin and its protective effects against photoaging: In‐vitro and clinical studies

Abstract

AbstractThis research examines the anti‐aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1–12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant properties. In subsequent in‐vitro studies with UVA‐exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa), EMIQ demonstrated protective properties by reducing collagen damage. It modulated both the TGFβ/Smad pathway and the MMP1 pathway, contributing to collagen preservation. This protective effect was further confirmed using the T‐Skin™ model, a reconstructed full‐thickness human skin model, which illustrated that EMIQ could defend the physiological structures of both the epidermis and dermis against UV radiation. A 28‐day clinical trial with 30 volunteers aged 31–55 years highlighted EMIQ's effectiveness. Participants using EMIQ‐containing Essence displayed reduced facial trans‐epidermal water loss and skin roughness, alongside improved skin elasticity. This study emphasizes EMIQ's potential as an anti‐photoaging ingredient in cosmetics, warranting further research. The findings pave the way for developing innovative skincare products addressing photoaging effects.