Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of cosmetics ingredient Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol

Abstract

AbstractBackgroundMicroencapsulation of hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) can improve its application in cosmetics.ObjectiveTo investigate the safety and efficacy of Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol, a HPR microcapsule containing 5%–10% peony seed oil, 0.01%–1% epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside (ECGG), and 0.1%–1% HPR.MethodsThe safety of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol was evaluated with zebrafish embryo self‐rotation irritation test and developmental toxicity test. SymRenew™ HPR was used as a reference. The skin care efficacies of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol were evaluated using zebrafish embryos covering antioxidation, anti‐inflammation, blood circulation, whitening, wound healing, skin barrier protection, Type I collagen, elastin, and 5α‐reductase genes expression activities.ResultsThe irritation test revealed that 250 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol did not, while 20 μg/mL SymRenew™ HPR significantly (p < 0.05) increased zebrafish embryo self‐rotation frequency. The developmental toxicity test found the teratogenicity index (half lethal concentration/half toxicity concentration) of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol and SymRenew™ HPR were 1.9 and 3.1, respectively. The efficacy analysis results showed that 5 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol significantly (p < 0.05) exerted 7.1% anti‐ROS, 20% anti‐inflammation, 14% enhanced blood circulation, 10% suppressed melanin synthesis, 9% enhanced tail fin regeneration, 72% elicited skin barrier protection activity, enhanced the expression of Type I collagen genes col1a1, col1a2, and col1a2 by 34%, 51%, and 42%, respectively, and elastin gene elna by 46%, and suppressed the expression of 5α‐reductase genes srd5a1, srd5a2a, and srd5a2b by 52%, 15%, and 30%, respectively.ConclusionThis study demonstrated that Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol is a safe cosmetic ingredient with multi‐skin care efficacies.