Affiliation:
1. L'Oréal Research & Innovation Clichy France
2. L'Oréal Research & Innovation Johannesburg South Africa
3. L'Oréal Research & Innovation Aulnay‐sous‐bois France
4. Nelson R. Mandela School of Medicine University of KwaZulu–Natal Durban South Africa
Abstract
AbstractDandruff and scalp discomfort are common concerns for women and men in Africa. Moreover, women with afro‐textured hair are prone to scalp discomfort owing to irregular hair washing, frequent use of oil‐based products on their scalp, and harsh chemical treatments. Current literature does not, however, provide data on the pathophysiological mechanisms of these conditions in this population. In this study, we investigated the mechanisms behind scalp discomfort and dandruff in women of African descent before and after hair washing. We conducted the in Durban, South Africa, over a 3‐week period with 60 women of African descent aged 20–40 years. The respondents were equally divided into a “dandruff” and a “no dandruff” group, based on clinical grading of adherent dandruff by a dermatologist. Malassezia spp. and bacterial loads were quantified by quantitative polymerase chain reaction. Evaluations of scalp condition and sample collection were performed at five time points during the 3 weeks. Data on discomfort symptoms were collected via a self‐assessment questionnaire. We observed that the dandruff severity peaked at the end of the first week after hair washing and plateaued from thereon in both groups. Dandruff was associated with higher Malassezia and bacterial load counts and there was a direct correlation between the Malassezia spp. load and dandruff score. Via self‐assessment questionnaire responses submitted by participants, we observed that itching was the most pronounced scalp discomfort, compared with the sensation of tingling and burning at baseline, while an improvement of the scalp symptoms of dandruff and itch was observed in both groups after one hair wash. The study also showed that higher colonization with Malassezia spp. and bacteria is associated with dandruff independently of the time point, confirming a scalp microbiome contribution to the dandruff pathophysiology in the study population. The benefits of washing were, however, not sustained after 1 week and we thus recommend weekly hair washing for long‐term management of dandruff and scalp itchiness in this population.
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