2‐Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent melanogenesis inhibitor, exhibits a unique mode of action while preserving melanocyte integrity

Abstract

AbstractResearch on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High‐throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2‐mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2‐MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance. The effectiveness of 2‐MNG was confirmed by topical application on pigmented reconstructed epidermis and human skin explants. In addition, experiments have shown that unlike most melanogenesis inhibitors on the market, this molecule is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. 2‐MNG binds to certain melanin precursors, preventing their integration into growing melanin and leading to inhibition of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis, without compromising the integrity of melanocytes.