Chemikalienmanagement in der textilen Lieferkette

Abstract

The World Summit on Sustainable Development in Johannesburg in 2002 set the goal of minimising the adverse impacts of chemicals and waste by 2020. This goal has not been achieved yet. Therefore, other approaches are needed to prevent, minimise, or replace harmful substances. One possible approach is this master thesis which deals with the challenges that the textile importer DELTEX is facing with regard to a transparent communication of chemicals used and contained in the product in its supply chain. DELTEX is bound by legal regulations and requirements of its customer and must ensure that there are no harmful substances in the garments. For each order, the customer requires a chemical inventory from DELTEX which contains the chemical substances and formulations used (so-called "order-wise chemical inventory"). Currently, the suppliers are not willing to pass this on to DELTEX. As a result, DELTEX is faced with the problem of having no knowledge of the materials used in the garments and is thus taking a high risk. The structure of this study is based on the transdisciplinary "delta analysis" of the Society for Institutional Analysis at the University of Applied Sciences Darmstadt. This compares the target state with the actual state and derives a delta from the difference. Based on this, suitable design options are to be developed to close the delta. The study defines the target state on the basis of normative requirements and derives three criteria from this, which can be used to measure design options. By means of guideline-based interviews with experts, an online survey and literature research, it examines the current state. The analysis shows that the relevant actors are in an unfavourable incentive and barrier situation. The textile supply chain can be seen as a complex construct in which a whole series of production sites (often in developing and emerging countries where corruption and low environmental standards exist) carry out many processing steps. Chemicals are used at almost all stages of processing, some of which have harmful effects on people and the environment. At the same time, factory workers in the production countries are under enormous price and time pressure and often have insufficient know-how about chemical processes. DELTEX is dependent on its main customer and therefore has little room for price negotiations. To close this delta, the study formulates design options on macro, meso and micro levels and measures them against the developed criteria. None of the measures completely meets all the criteria, which is why a residual delta remains. The study concludes that not one, but rather a combination of several design options at all levels can achieve the target state. For DELTEX, an alliance with other textile importers, membership in the Fair Wear Foundation, strengthening the relationship with its suppliers and cooperation with another customer are recommended. Furthermore, the use of material data tools that support proactive reporting approaches such as a Full Material Declaration is recommended. The study is carried out from the perspective of the textile importer DELTEX. The results can therefore only be applied to the entire textile supply chain to a limited extent.