Handedness, Bilateral, and Interdigit Strength Asymmetries in Male Climbers

Author:

Hartley Cameron12ORCID,Taylor Nicola1ORCID,Chidley Joel1,Baláš Jiří3ORCID,Giles Dave2ORCID

Affiliation:

1. Clinical Exercise and Rehabilitation Research Center, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom

2. Lattice Training Ltd., Chesterfield, United Kingdom

3. Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic

Abstract

Purpose: To determine whether there are bilateral and interdigit differences in the maximal force production of experienced climbers and whether these differences are mediated by ability level or preferred style of climbing. Methods: Thirty-six male climbers (age 30 [9.4] y) took part in a single-session trial to test their maximal force production on both hands. The tests included a one-arm maximal isometric finger flexor strength test (MIFS) and a one-arm individual MIFS. Bilateral differences were analyzed by strongest hand (defined as the hand that produced the highest MIFS value) and dominance (defined as the writing hand). Results: A pairwise t test found that MIFS was significantly greater for the strongest hand (mean difference = 4.1%, 95% CI, −0.052 to 0.029, P < .001), with handedness explaining 89% of the variation. A 2-way mixed-model analysis of variance determined that there were no interactions between preferred style (bouldering or sport climbing) and MIFS or between ability level (advanced or elite) and MIFS. Conclusions: Climbers have significant finger flexor strength bilateral asymmetries between their strongest and weakest hand. Moreover, when dominance is controlled, this difference in strength is present, with the dominant hand producing more force. Neither preferred style of climbing nor the ability level of the climbers could explain these asymmetries. As such, practitioners should consider regularly monitoring unilateral strength, aiming to minimize the likelihood of large bilateral asymmetry occurring.

Publisher

Human Kinetics

Subject

Orthopedics and Sports Medicine,Physical Therapy, Sports Therapy and Rehabilitation

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