Seam pucker detection through presser foot displacement monitoring

Abstract

The paper investigates the relation between seam pucker, woven fabric formability, and the presser foot displacement during stitch formation. Superimposed seams of class 1 were sewn in warp and weft direction using woven fabrics for tailored garments. The presser foot height was continuously monitored during stitch formation for different sewing machine speeds. The foot displacement during the sewing cycle was correlated with seam pucker. The obtained results showed various patterns of pressure foot displacement regarding the sewing machine speeds. It was found that at a lower machine speed there is no bouncing of the presser foot and the ratio of the height of the presser foot before and after rising and declining movement versus double thickness of the fabric (h/T1), correlates significantly with the seam pucker percentage. The fabrics having a higher h/T1 ratio showed a higher percentage of seam pucker. The obtained results suggest that online monitoring of this parameter can be a useful indication of on-seam pucker appearance, providing reliable means to obtain a quality seam.