From Chinese food to Japan’s Hokkaido heritage: The transformation of the grilled mutton or lamb dish ‘Jingisukan’

Abstract

Jingisukan is a dish in which mutton or lamb and vegetables are grilled using a uniquely shaped pan with a convex center. It originated from the popular Chinese dish ‘Kao Yang Rou’ (grilled mutton), which was discovered by Japanese individuals in Beijing and underwent modifications, leading to the creation of the distinctive name ‘Jingisukan.’ This dish was then introduced to the Japanese in Northeast China, specifically known as ‘Manchuria,’ and gained fame as a specialty of ‘Manchukuo,’ being highly valued even by the Japanese army. Following Japan’s defeat in World War II, Jingisukan became a local dish in Hokkaido and was recognized as a ‘Hokkaido Heritage’ in 2004. The widespread popularity of this dish in Japan can be attributed to its association with Genghis Khan. This study views Jingisukan as a type of ‘colonial cuisine’ and elucidates its dissemination by comparing it with examples such as British curry. Furthermore, it considers this cuisine a ‘difficult heritage’ to evaluate, examining how people in post-World War II Japan perceived the history of Jingisukan’s association with imperialism and how they transformed it into a local dish in Hokkaido. Jingisukan became widely popular after World War II and was initially perceived as a Chinese dish. This association evoked nostalgia for mainland China, where the Japanese Empire had expanded its influence before and during the war. In Hokkaido, Jingisukan became particularly favored for outdoor dining. By the 1960s, it gained nationwide recognition, with mutton imported from overseas. Simultaneously, Jingisukan has been actively promoted as a tourist attraction in Sapporo and throughout Hokkaido.