Author:
Khoirunnisa H,Pasma G R,Gumbira G
Abstract
Abstract
A number of rapid developments and negative effects of climate change in coastal areas have forced its equilibrium system. As a result, tidal floods, high waves, and storms occur more frequently. The goal of this research is to examine nearshore hydrodynamic conditions by using results from the hindcasting procedure. A non-linear Boussinesq (BW) and Spectral Wave (SW) models are used in this study. The models use the manning coefficient, bathymetry data (BATNAS), significant wave height, and wave period calculated by using the hindcasting method. This research commenced by processing wind data from the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) from the years 2009 to 2021 with an interval of 3 hours. Then, wave height for return periods 1-, 50- and 100-years are calculated using Gumbel and Fisher-Tippett type I distribution, respectively. The aforementioned approach produced wave heights of 4.23; 6.16; and 6.49 m for return periods 1, 50, and 100 years, respectively. By using this series of wave data, the models predicted that 1.2 m waves propagate close to the nearshore regions.
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