Quality of motif, colors and fastness of Sekar Ayu ecoprint products in terms of mordant type, natural dyes, and types of leaves on silk fabrics

Abstract

Abstract The purpose of this study was to describe the ecoprint quality of silk fabrics with different natural dyes in terms of the aesthetics of the motif, and the color and fastness of washing and rubbing. This research method is experimental research with descriptive percentage analysis. Experiments using tunjung and alum mordant as well as teak leaf ecoprints, Japanese papaya (Cnidoscolus aconitifolius), cherry leaves (Muntingia calabura), and Jatropha wulung leaves as well as natural colors tegeran, jelawe, and indigovera. Methods of collecting data by experiment, observation and from the test results in the textile laboratory. The results showed that the Aesthetic Quality of the silk fabric ecoprint motif was very good, and the use of natural dyes of jelawe and tunjung mordant produced the best motifs. The results of laboratory tests showed the color direction of the ecoprint fabric was the best with alum mordant and natural dye tegeran with the highest L* 80.90 value. The results of the fastness of ecoprint fabrics against soap washing on silk fabrics using natural dyes of jelawe, mordant alum showed the best because it resulted in a score of 4 in the ‘Good’ category and the others obtained 3-4 so that the category was sufficient. The value of fastness to wet cloth rubbing on ecoprint silk fabrics overall shows good because it produces a score of 4-5 in the ‘Good’ category.