Abstract
Abstract
An analytical description of unsteady edge waves over a uniform slope is proposed. It is assumed that the waves are excited by time-harmonic external pressure with inhomogeneous spatial distribution. The problem is considered in Lagrangian variables. An exact solution of the hydrodynamic equations is obtained. It generalizes the stationary Gerstner–Constantin solution. The proposed model describes the dynamics of coastal splashes of arbitrary initial shape. An important feature of the new solution is that it describes waves both propagating and standing in the longshore direction.
Subject
General Physics and Astronomy,Mathematical Physics,Modeling and Simulation,Statistics and Probability,Statistical and Nonlinear Physics
Reference45 articles.
1. Generation of surf beat by nonlinear wave interactions;Gallagher;J. Fluid Mech.,1971
2. Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves;Freilich;Phil. Trans. R. Soc. A,1984
3. Evolution equations for edge waves and shear waves on longshore uniform beaches;Kirby,1998
4. TRIADS: a phase-resolving model for nonlinear shoaling of directional wave spectra;Sheremet;Ocean Model.,2016