The effect of mordanting method on the absorption behavior of natural dyes

Abstract

Purpose This work aims to study the effect of mordanting method as pre-mordanting (on-chrome), meta-mordanting (meta-chrome) and post-mordanting (after-chrome) on wool dyeing with madder natural dye without tannin and pomegranates peel, as a natural dye contains tannin. Design/methodology/approach The woolen yarn was dyed with madder and pomegranate peel natural dyes by three methods as pre-mordant, meta-mordant and pos-mordant. The color parameters and reflectance spectra of dyed samples were analyzed by using derivative spectroscopy and the principal component analysis (PCA) techniques. Findings The obtained results indicate that the color difference between the samples dyed with madder by pre-mordanting, and the samples dyed by other methods is more than the color difference between the samples dyed by meta-mordanting and post-mordanting. However, the color difference between samples dyed with pomegranate peel by pre-mordanting and meta-mordanting methods is less compared to other pairs. Also, analysis of reflectance spectra and color depth (K/S) values indicate that the color depth of dyed sample with madder by pre-mordanting method is more than other dyeing methods. But, the color depth of sample dyed with pomegranate peel by post-mordanting method is less compared to other methods. The analysis of first-, second-, third- and fourth-order derivatives of reflectance spectra and the study of the first, second, third and fourth PCs of reflectance spectra indicate that the reflectance of dyed samples with madder and pomegranates peel depends on the mordanting method. Originality/value Evaluation of the effect of mordanting method on color and reflectance of wool dyed with madder and pomegranates peel natural dyes using derivative spectroscopy and the PCA techniques