Author:
Monobe Ai,Kim KyoungOk,Takatera Masayuki
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to clarify changes in the appearance of a ready-made tailored jacket due to changes in the ease allowance and determine suitable ranges of the ease allowance for the jacket.
Design/methodology/approach
Images were taken of the front, side and back of a jacket placed on a dress form with varying sizes of bust, waist and hips. The authors observed the appearance of the jacket for the different sizes of the dress form. A sensory evaluation of the suitable range of ease allowance for the jacket involving 20 female Japanese university students was carried out. The evaluation items were the fit, beauty, comfort and purchase intention.
Findings
The jacket appearance was lowly evaluated if there were many wrinkles and highly evaluated if there was a curved silhouette. Changes in bust, sleeve and waist parts affected the evaluation of the suitable ranges of ease allowance. The suitable range of ease allowance varied depending on the jacket part and viewing direction. In terms of fit, the suitable ease allowance ranged between 5.6 and 9.9 percent for the bust, between 7.6 and 17.8 percent for the waist and between 2.6 and 8.6 percent for the hips. The suitable ranges were determined considering the wrinkling and silhouette in these parts.
Originality/value
Suitable ranges of ease allowance of a tailored jacket were determined by evaluating a jacket for 11 dress form sizes of the bust, nine sizes of the waist and seven sizes of the hips, at 2 cm intervals. The obtained suitable ease allowance ranges are useful to manufacturers in terms of garment design and to customers in terms of selecting suitable garments.
Subject
Polymers and Plastics,General Business, Management and Accounting,Materials Science (miscellaneous),Business, Management and Accounting (miscellaneous)
Reference15 articles.
1. Perception testing of apparel ease variation;Applied Ergonomics,1995
2. Effects of combinations of patternmaking methods and dress forms on garment appearance;Autex Research Journal,2016
3. Chun, J. (2007), “Communication of sizing and fit”, in Ashdown, S.P. (Ed.), Sizing in Clothing, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, pp. 220-245.
4. Improving garment fit and function through ease quantification;Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal,2011
5. Determination of ease allowances included in pattern construction methods;International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education,2009
Cited by
10 articles.
订阅此论文施引文献
订阅此论文施引文献,注册后可以免费订阅5篇论文的施引文献,订阅后可以查看论文全部施引文献