Avangard Bir Tasarımın Tekrarlanan Görselleri Üzerinden Derridacı Yapısökümü Okumak

Abstract

This article focuses on Hussein Chalayan’s Memory Dress as a case study and applies content analysis on it so as to point out the similarities between the critical avant-garde method of Derridean deconstruction and avant-garde fashion design. A coding schema is utilized to standardize the content analysis conducted on the variety of styles of the Memory Dress. The study focuses on the design details of the Memory Dress such as the convertible high-stand collar, the shiny button, the vertical needle stitch, the horizontal double stitches and the chest patch pocket and studies each category separately under the Derridean concepts of intertextuality, trace and différance. The coding schema reveals the visual equivalence of each Derridean concept through the qualitative analysis conducted on the visual images of the garment. This way, the article explains an avant-garde garment’s structure in relation to deconstructivist norms. With such intention, the article demonstrates how a garment structurally embodies and visually communicates the Derridean notions of intertextuality, trace and différance. By materializing abstract, philosophical terms on design details, and motifs, the article highlights the parallelism between postmodern critical thinking, and avant-garde creativity.