Numerical Simulation of Ocean Waves for Statistical Analysis

Abstract

A review is made on the numerical simulation technique of ocean surface wave profiles under a given spectral form. Two standard frequency spectral functions are given, and the statistical characteristics of wave heights and periods are examined from a large number of simulated wave profiles. The effects of spectral shapes on the representative heights and periods are presented in tabular forms. The statistical variability of significant wave height, mean period, and others obtained from one record are shown to be inversely proportional to the square root of the number of waves in a record. From the spatial simulation of wave profiles, the length and height of wave crests are defined and their statistical characteristics are examined. Comments are made on the preparation of the wave generator control signals for 3-D wave basins. A possibility of randomly varying infragravity wave motion is discussed with an example.