Sandwaves in the Southern North Sea and in the Persian Gulf

Abstract

In 1935, Van Veen, Chief Engineer of the Dutch Waterstaat, wrote about some giant sandwaves which he had recorded on the Varne Bank and the Falls in the Straits of Dover. They were up to 40 feet high from trough to crest, and were found at either end of the banks. Although these dimensions seemed somewhat unusual at the time, such waves had been known to exist since the end of the last century, when Osborne Reynolds, experimenting in a model tank, discovered in 1899 that tidal streams could produce what he called ‘very large current ripples, possibly 7 or 8 feet high and 80 to 100 feet apart.’ In 1901, Vaughan Cornish described having seen giant ripples of that order in several localities, among them the North Goodwin Sands.Giant waves are by no means rare. Early in 1953, H.M.S. Challenger obtained a trace on the Cross Sands, east of Lowestoft, on which several waves between 25 and 30 feet high were recorded in about 20 fathoms of water. During the summer of 1953, one of H.M. survey vessels recorded waves up to 50 feet high in a depth of water above the crests of about 12 fathoms on a sandbank north of Perim Island in the Red Sea.