Resonant scattering of edge waves by longshore periodic topography

Abstract

The resonant scattering of topographically trapped, low-mode progressive edge waves by longshore periodic topography is investigated using a multiple-scale expansion of the linear shallow water equations. Coupled evolution equations for the slowly varying amplitudes of incident and scattered edge waves are derived for small-amplitude, periodic depth perturbations superposed on a plane beach. In ‘single-wave scattering’, an incident edge wave is resonantly scattered into a single additional progressive edge wave having the same or different mode number (i.e. longshore wavenumber), and propagating in the same or opposite direction (forward and backward scattering, respectively), as the incident edge wave. Backscattering into the same mode number as the incident edge wave, the analogue of Bragg scattering of surface waves, is a special case. In ‘multi-wave scattering’, simultaneous forward and backward resonant scattering results in several (rather than only one) new progressive edge waves. Analytic solutions are obtained for single-wave scattering and for a special case of multi-wave scattering involving mode-0 and mode-1 edge waves, over perturbed depth regions of both finite and semi-infinite longshore extent. In single-wave backscattering with small (subcritical) detuning (i.e. departure from exact resonance), the incident and backscattered wave amplitudes both decay exponentially with propagation distance over the periodic bathymetry, whereas with large (supercritical) detuning the amplitudes oscillate with distance. In single-wave forward scattering, the wave amplitudes are oscillatory regardless of the magnitude of the detuning. Multi-wave solutions combine aspects of single-wave backward and forward scattering. In both single- and multi-wave scattering, the exponential decay rates and oscillatory wavenumbers of the edge wave amplitudes depend on the detuning. The results suggest that naturally occurring rhythmic features such as beach cusps and crescentic bars are sometimes of large enough amplitude to scatter a significant amount of incident low-mode edge wave energy in a relatively short distance (O(10) topographic wavelengths).