The evolution of time-periodic long waves of finite amplitude

Abstract

The breakdown of shallow water waves into forms exhibiting several secondary crests is analyzed by numerical computations based on approximate equations accounting for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion. From detailed results of two cases it is shown that when long waves are such that the parameter σ = ν*L*2/h*3 is of moderate magnitude, either due to initially steep waves generated at a wave-maker or due to forced amplification by decreasing depth, waves periodic in time do not remain simply periodic in space. Numerical results are compared with experiments for waves propagating past a slope and onto a shelf.