Modulation of the amplitude of steep wind waves

Author:

Longuet-Higgins M. S.

Abstract

Lake & Yuen (1978) have suggested that in very steep wind waves the modulation-frequency of the wave amplitude may correspond to the frequency of the fastest-growing subharmonic instability of a uniform train of waves whose amplitude equals the mean wave amplitude $\overline{a}$. The approximate theory of Benjamin & Feir (1967) gives this frequency as $(\overline{a}k)f_d$, where κ is the wavenumber and fd the frequency of the unperturbed waves. This expression applies strictly only to very small values of the wave steepness $\overline{a}k$.More recently (Longuet-Higgins 1978) the present author calculated accurately all the normal-mode instabilities of steep gravity waves on deep water. In this note these calculations are used to determine the frequency of the fastest-growing sub-harmonic instabilities precisely. When compared with the experimental data of Lake & Huen, these frequencies show even closer agreement.

Publisher

Cambridge University Press (CUP)

Subject

Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics

Reference11 articles.

1. Lake, B. M. & Yuen, H. C. 1978 A new model for nonlinear wind waves. Part 1. Physical model and experimental evidence.J. Fluid Mech. 88,33–62.

2. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1956 The statistical analysis of a random, moving surface.Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. A 249,321–000.

3. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1952 On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves.J. Mar. Res. 11,245–266.

4. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1978 The instabilities of gravity waves of finite amplitude in deep water.Proc. Roy. Soc. A 360,471–505.

5. Benjamin, T. B. & Feir, J. E. 1967 The disintegration of wave trains in deep water. Part I. Theory.J. Fluid Mech. 27,417–430.

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