Third-order approximation to short-crested waves

Author:

Hsu J. R. C.,Tsuchiya Y.,Silvester R.

Abstract

Short-crested wave systems, as produced by two progressive waves propagating at an oblique angle to each other, have an extremely important effect on a sedimentary bed. The complex water-particle motions are conducive to lifting material into suspension and sustaining it in motion. In order to study this phenomenon rigorously, the variables of this wave system are derived to a third-order approximation by a perturbation method. The case of waves reflecting obliquely from a vertical wall is examined under the assumptions of full reflexion, uniform finite depth and an inviscid incompressible fluid. The new formulation reduces to standing or Stokes waves at the limiting angles of approach. Expressions for kinematic quantities are also presented.

Publisher

Cambridge University Press (CUP)

Subject

Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics

Reference13 articles.

1. Fuchs, R. A. 1962 On the theory of short-crested oscillatory waves.Gravity Waves, U.S. Nat. Bur. Stand. circular 521, pp.187–200.

2. Silvester, R. 1972 Wave reflection at seawalls and breakwaters.Proc. Inst. Civil Engrs 51,123–131.

3. Stokes, G. G. 1847 On the theory of oscillatory waves.Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc. 8,441–455.

4. Hsu, J. R. C. 1977 Kinematics of short-crested waves.6th Austral. Conf. Hydraul. Fluid Mech., Adelaide, pp.56–59.

5. Coda, Y. & Kakizaki, S. 1966 Study on finite amplitude standing waves and their pressure upon a vertical wall. Rep. Port Harbour Res. Inst. Japan , vol. 5, no. 10 (in Japanese).

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