Author:
Benjamin T. Brooke,Mahony J. J.
Abstract
The discussion concerns free wave motions generated from rest in a finite region of an ocean of heavy liquid lying on a horizontal plane. It is shown that the horizontal fist moment of the free-surface displacement varies linearly with time. Hence, if the total volume displaced is not zero and therefore the centroid of the displacement is definable, the centroid travels with a constant horizontal velocity as the wave motion evolves. This conclusion holds exactly for waves of any amplitude and even remains applicable subsequent to the breaking of waves.
Publisher
Cambridge University Press (CUP)
Subject
Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics
Cited by
13 articles.
订阅此论文施引文献
订阅此论文施引文献，注册后可以免费订阅5篇论文的施引文献，订阅后可以查看论文全部施引文献