Geometric properties of deep-water breaking waves

Author:

Bonmarin P.

Abstract

The time-space evolution of a steep water wave reaching the breaking stage is observed by means of a visualization technique. In particular, the asymmetry of the wave profile in the near-breaking region is displayed. Measurements at breaking onset on a sample of breaking waves show a relation between the rate of asymmetry growth and the breaker type. The shape evolution of a plunging crest after breaking has started, and the related splash-up phenomenon and its part in the air-entrainment process are also observed.

Publisher

Cambridge University Press (CUP)

Subject

Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics

Reference44 articles.

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3. Suhayda, J. N. & Pettigrew, N. R. 1977 Observations of wave height and wave celerity in the surf zone.J. Geophys. Res. 82,1419.

4. Mason, M. A. 1952 Some observations of breaking waves. Gravity Waves.Natl Bur. Stand. Circ. 521, p.215.

5. Jansen, P. A. 1986a The period-doubling of gravity-capillary waves.J. Fluid Mech. 172,531.

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