Mass transport under standing waves over a sloping beach

Abstract

AbstractThis paper deals with the mass transport induced by sea waves propagating over a sloping beach and fully reflected from a wall. It is shown that for moderate slopes the classical recirculation cell structure holds for small Reynolds numbers only. When the Reynolds number is large, the cells interact among themselves giving rise to the merging of the negative cells and the confinement of the positive ones near the bottom. Under such circumstances the fluid moves onshore near the bottom and offshore near the free surface. The seaward decrease of the vorticity produced at the bottom appears to be the reason for the merging phenomenon.