Abstract
AbstractThe southern fringing reef along Ofu, American Samoa, has been a focus of coral research owing to the presence of super-heated pools on the reef flat, where corals thrive in elevated sea temperatures. Here, we present the first documentation of exceptionally large low-frequency (periods > 100 s) waves over this reef flat. During a large, southerly swell event, low-frequency waves on the inner reef flat had mean heights of 0.7 m and periods of 2–4 min and are estimated to have contributed up to 50% of the total water levels. One observed low-frequency wave had a trough-to-peak vertical height of 1.5 m, possibly representing the largest low-frequency wave ever directly observed on a reef flat. These large, low-frequency waves, which were likely amplified by reef resonance, are important factors in coastal hazards such as flooding and erosion and may also be relevant to coral health and resilience.
Publisher
Springer Science and Business Media LLC
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