1. Photograph courtesy of Wikimedia and David Redevik (RELEASED). This photograph may be used by anyone for any purpose. 98
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3. D. H. Peregrine, Equations for water waves and the approximations behind them, Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport, R. Meyer, Ed., Academic Press, New York, 1972. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-493250-0.50007-2. 100, 111
4. D. T. Sandwell, et al., Bathymetry from Space: White Paper in Support of a High Resolution, Ocean Altimeter Mission, Scripps Institute of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA. 101
5. Bathymetric plot courtesy of Wikimedia. Permission granted under terms ofthe GNU Free Documentation License. 102, 113