Silk-embroidered garments as transformative processes: layering, inscribing and displaying Hausa material identities

Abstract

This article explores some aspects of Hausa wild silk embroidered gowns known as riga, interpreting these famous and prestigious attires in the light of techniques and transformative processes. The author thus highlights implicit forms of knowledge underlying material practices about, first, the wearing and layering of highly decorated gowns and, second, the process of creating silk-embroidered motifs (on the outside gown) and inked patterns (on the inside gown) that stand as the objectification and expression of charismatic power through self-display. The author proposes that Hausa wild silk-embroidered gowns constitute a material identity of power in that they materialize individual as well as group social status, prestige, fame and wealth. The empirical materials derive from ongoing fieldwork in northern Nigeria on the production and use of wild silk, a particular substance/material to which mystic properties are attributed and which plays an important role in the empowerment of riga.