Estimation of the main parameters of wave action on the gentle slopes of the banks of large water bodies

Abstract

When designing coastal protection measures, special attention is paid to the creation and expansion of a natural beach slope on the coast of a water body. To assign geometric dimensions to relatively stable beach slopes, it is necessary to evaluate the relationship of waves, taking into account the level regime characteristic of a given section of the coast. The aim of the research is to explore the features of the transformation of the wave profile in shallow water and to conduct a comparative analysis of theory and experiment. The studies were carried out in a wave tray, where the waves were reproduced by a swinging shield. The features of the transformation of the wave profile at decreasing depths of the shallow water of a large water body are considered. An assessment is given of the change in the kinematic characteristics of a wave incident in a shallow water zone on an unfortified beach slope with a depth of 10, 20 and 30. The results of experimental studies are presented and analyzed, as a result of which the influence of the wave steepness on the kinematic characteristics and features of wave transformation in shallow water is revealed. A comparative analysis of theoretical solutions and experimental data with an assessment of the area of their applicability is carried out. On the whole, the wave profile and the horizontal component of the orbital velocity during the passage of the wave crest are in satisfactory agreement with the calculations according to the Stokes theory at relative depths of more than 0.07. It has been established that for shallow water conditions the relative height of the wave crest affecting the beach slope of the near-shore zone of the coast of a large water body is most noticeably affected by the slope, with an increase from 10 to 30 the magnitude of the wave steepness can increase by 1.2 times.