From Twining to Triple Cloth: Experimentation and Innovation in Ancient Peruvian Weaving (ca. 5000-400 B.C.)

Author:

Doyon-Bernard S. J.

Abstract

A chronological sequence for the introduction of the major categories of loom weaves in the Initial period and Early Horizon of prehistoric Peru reveals a process of experimentation that begins with primarily suprastructural and discontinuous decoration and culminates with the achievement of designs that are wedded materially to the weave. Three major innovations allowed for this dramatic advance: (1) the use of multiple heddles, which is found surprisingly early in the sequence; (2) the recognition of the full potential of the “cross” to vary the selection of the warps from the fixed order in the heddles, and (3) the related application of the complementary principle, in which one colored yarn is substituted for its partner in a contrasting hue. Through the elaboration of these truly revolutionary discoveries, the last limits to artistic freedom were removed and weaving technology rapidly advanced to include the full repertoire of loom-weave classes known in the Andes.

Publisher

Cambridge University Press (CUP)

Subject

Museology,Archeology,Arts and Humanities (miscellaneous),History

Reference49 articles.

1. Early Ancón and Early Supe Culture

2. Chavin Textiles and the Origins of Peruvian Weaving;Conklin;Textile Museum Journal,1971

3. Two Guatemalan Wedding Huipils;Bird;The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club,1953

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