Registration of Nonlinear Hydrophysical Disturbances—Rogue Waves in Full-Scale Conditions

Abstract

In the paper, we discuss the results of processing and analysis of field data obtained from a laser-based supersensitive detector during the registering of hydrosphere pressure variations on the seabed at various points of the Sea of Japan shelf. The main focus is the study of physical mechanisms of the occurrence of nonlinear hydrophysical disturbances in the range of gravity and infragravity sea waves classed as rogue waves, the amplitudes of which are more than twice the amplitudes of the bordering signals in this range of periods. It has been established that in the range of gravity/wind sea wave periods (2–20 s), similar disturbances were registered by the supersensitive detector of hydrosphere pressure variations. The paper explains the appearance of such nonlinear disturbances. In addition to single large-amplitude nonlinear perturbations, classical nonlinear disturbances, related to the “one sister”, “two sisters”, and “three sisters” rogue wave types were discovered. Their occurrence is associated with the interaction of gravity and infragravity sea waves in the zone of the recording equipment location. In the course of spectral processing of the obtained field data, the main modes of wind waves and infragravity sea waves responsible for the formation of the observed rogue waves were identified. The intermodal energy transfer in the observed wave packet resembles in its behavior the modified Fermi–Past–Ulam recurrence. In the lower frequency range, non-linear hydrophysical disturbances of the “sea hole” and “crest” type were found; the origin of which is associated with atmospheric processes.