Considering Phytosphingosine-Based Ceramide Formulations for Atopic Skin Care

Abstract

This review provides an overview of the structural and functional features of key phytosphingosine-based ceramides (CERs), notably CER[EOP], CER[NP], and CER[AP], and their role in atopic skin health. Herein, we discuss how these indispensable stratum corneum (SC) lipids maintain skin barrier homeostasis and contribute to the skin’s barrier function in terms of its cohesiveness and resilience. We also consider the usefulness of CER[EOP], CER[NP], and CER[AP] in preserving skin hydration and protecting and/or repairing dry, itchy, or sensitive skin. Next, we explore how and to what extent an imbalance or inadequate amounts of CER[EOP], CER[NP], and CER[AP] contribute to the hallmark characteristics of atopic skin diseases like eczema. Furthermore, we discuss the importance of complementary SC resident lipids such as cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are crucial for optimal CER function. Studies have shown that delivering topical CERs in balanced and optimal combination with CHOL and FFAs—while supporting and boosting the endogenous biosynthesis of CERs using ingredients such as niacinamide and lactic acid—helps relieve symptoms of atopic diseases to provide some measure of relief. Finally, we look at some emerging ingredients that can complement the science of CERs in healthy and diseased skin.