Shoot Cultures of Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) Different Cultivars as a Promising Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material—Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant Potential, and Whitening Activity

Author:

Sharafan Marta12,Malinowska Magdalena Anna2ORCID,Kubicz Marta1,Kubica Paweł1ORCID,Gémin Marin-Pierre3,Abdallah Cécile3,Ferrier Manon3ORCID,Hano Christophe4ORCID,Giglioli-Guivarc’h Nathalie3ORCID,Sikora Elżbieta2ORCID,Lanoue Arnaud3ORCID,Szopa Agnieszka1ORCID

Affiliation:

1. Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Medical College, Jagiellonian University, Medyczna 9 St., 30-688 Cracow, Poland

2. Institute of Organic Chemistry and Technology, Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Technology, Cracow University of Technology, 24 Warszawska St., 31-155 Cracow, Poland

3. EA 2106 Biomolecules et Biotechnologies Végétales, UFR des Sciences Pharmaceutiques, Université de Tours, 31 av. Monge, F37200 Tours, France

4. Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique, Universite d’Orleans-CNRS, UMR 7311 BP 6759, CEDEX 2, 45067 Orléans, France

Abstract

The primary purpose of this work was the initiation and optimization of shoot cultures of different Vitis vinifera L. cultivars: cv. Chardonnay, cv. Hibernal, cv. Riesling, cv. Johanniter, cv. Solaris, cv. Cabernet Cortis, and cv. Regent. Cultures were maintained on 30-day growth cycles using two media, Murashige and Skoog (MS) and Schenk and Hildebrandt (SH), with various concentrations of plant growth regulators. Tested media (‘W1’–‘W4’) contained varying concentrations of 6-benzylaminopurine (BA) in addition to indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) and 1-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA). High performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (UPLC–MS) was used for metabolomic profiling. In all tested extracts, 45 compounds were identified (6 amino acids, 4 phenolic acids, 13 flavan-3-ols, 3 flavonols, and 19 stilbenoids). Principal component analysis (PCA) was performed to assess the influence of the genotype and medium on metabolic content. PCA showed that metabolic content was mainly influenced by genotype and to a lesser extent by medium composition. MS media variants induced the amino acid, procyanidin, and flavan-3-ol production. In addition, the antioxidant potential and anti-tyrosinase activity was measured spectrophotometrically. The studies on antioxidant activity clearly reveal very high efficiency in reducing free radicals in the tested extracts. The strongest tyrosinase inhibition capacity was proved for shoots cv. Hibernal cultured in SH medium and supplemented with NAA, with an inhibition of 17.50%. These studies show that in vitro cultures of V. vinifera cvs. can be proposed as an alternative source of plant material that can be potentially used in cosmetic industry.

Funder

PHC Polonium 2022 joint research project between France and Poland

Publisher

MDPI AG

Subject

Chemistry (miscellaneous),Analytical Chemistry,Organic Chemistry,Physical and Theoretical Chemistry,Molecular Medicine,Drug Discovery,Pharmaceutical Science

Reference53 articles.

1. Sharafan, M., Malinowska, M.A., Ekiert, H., Kwaśniak, B., Sikora, E., and Szopa, A. (2023). Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) as a Valuable Cosmetic Raw Material. Pharmaceutics, 15.

2. (2023, August 14). European Medicines Agency (EMA). Available online: https://www.ema.europa.eu/en.

3. (2023, August 14). Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Available online: https://www.fda.gov.

4. (2023, August 14). European Food Safety Authority (EFSA). Available online: https://www.efsa.europa.eu/en.

5. (2023, August 14). Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng). Available online: www.ec.europa.eu.

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