Analysis of the Interannual Variability of Pacific Swell Pools

Author:

Zhang Xin12,Wu Kejian12,Li Rui123ORCID,Li Dongze12,Zhang Shuai4,Zhang Ruyan5,Li Shuo3,Dong Xianghui12

Affiliation:

1. Frontier Science Center for Deep Ocean Multispheres and Earth System (FDOMES) and Physical Oceanography Laboratory, Ocean University of China, Qingdao 266100, China

2. College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Ocean University of China, Qingdao 266100, China

3. Department of Infrastructure Engineering, University of Melbourne, Parkville, VIC 3010, Australia

4. Gongyi the Yellow River Yellow River Bureau, Zhengzhou 451200, China

5. Miami College, Henan University, Kaifeng 475001, China

Abstract

The investigation of the propagation of swells throughout the ocean has long been a subject of significant interest in physical oceanography. This paper investigates the interannual variability of the Pacific swell pools and examines the factors contributing to their formation using the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) ERA5 re-analysis dataset. Our results show that the interaction between swell propagation and wind fields influences the formation and development of Pacific swell pools. The eastern and southern Pacific swell pools are mainly caused by the northward propagation of swells from the South Pacific; the western and northern swell pools are primarily influenced by the southward propagation of swells from the North Pacific; and the central part of the swell pools is the result of the combined impact of both swell propagation from the north and south Pacific. The size of the swell pools in the Pacific Ocean is at its maximum in the northern hemisphere during the winter (December, January, and February) and at its minimum during the summer (June, July, and August). Due to the impact of the low-pressure systems, the swell pools in the winter hemisphere are relatively small, while the swell pools in the summer hemisphere are significantly larger. There is a relationship between the swell pools and ENSO events. When an El Niño event (La Niña event) occurs, the swells propagating to the low latitudes of the Pacific Ocean from high latitudes will strengthen (weaken), resulting in an increase (decrease) in the size of the swell pools. Analyzing the spatial and temporal distribution of the swell pools is important for understanding the large-scale effect of waves.

Funder

National Natural Science Foundation of China

Publisher

MDPI AG

Subject

Ocean Engineering,Water Science and Technology,Civil and Structural Engineering

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