In vitro, ex vivo and clinical approaches to evaluate the potential effect of Gentiana lutea extract on skin

Abstract

AbstractBackgroundDark circles affect subjects of all ages and in all skin types. They can be treated by various methods, particular by topical solutions. This investigation was directed towards exploring the effect of gentiopicroside (GP) on the skin around the eyes. For this, an extract of Gentiana lutea (GIE) containing GP (65% by dry matter) was evaluated on oxidant and angiogenesis parameters using in vitro and ex‐vivo studies. A clinical experimentation was also realized.MethodsThe effect of GIE at different concentrations on antioxidant gene was evaluated in vitro by RT‐qPCR after treatment of NHDF. The effect of 2.93 μg mL−1 GIE on the release of VEGF‐A and VEGF‐C by NHDF was also studied. The effect of 87.9 μg mL−1 GIE was also evaluated on pseudotube formation in a coculture system of normal dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMVEC‐d)‐NHDF stimulated or not with VEGF as pro‐angiogenic factor. Prior to these assays, preliminary cytotoxicity assays were performed using a standard WST‐8 reduction assay. The expressions of carboxymethyl‐lysine and glyoxalase‐1 were quantified on skin explants topically treated with 147 μg mL−1 GIE in basal and UVA‐irradiated conditions. A clinical study was conducted in 22 subjects using topical twice daily for 14 days on eye area (split‐face application: cream containing 147 μg mL−1 GIE versus placebo). 3D image acquisition and skin colour measurement were performed at D0 and D14.ResultsTreatment of GIE upregulated the gene expression of NFE2L2 and downregulated the expression of CXCL8. GIE targeted AGEs pathways and reduced the formation of pseudotubes. A total of 147 μg mL−1 GIE gel cream significantly reduced significantly the average roughness and relief of the upper eyelid skin as well as the redness of dark circles after 14 days of application.ConclusionBy acting on the pathway of AGEs, VEGF‐A and VEFG‐C, GIE seems to allow a rejuvenation of the skin resulting, among others, in a decrease in redness. It now would be interesting to evaluate the efficacy of GIE on skin around eyes microbiota, antibacterial gentiopicroside property being well‐established.