WAVE ATTENUATION AND WAVE SET-UP ON A COASTAL REEF

Abstract

In attempting to specify criteria for the design of structures on coastal reefs, it was found that no adequate method existed to derive those criteria from the deep water wave conditions. In order to fill the gap, a program of measurements and analysis was initiated at the University of Hawaii. The program consisted of prototype and laboratory measurements. Great emphasis was placed on reliable field data, which were collected on Ala Moana Reef, in Honolulu. Laboratory investigations on the behavior of waves on shallow reefs are subject to scale effects; verification from field observations is required to obtain reliable results. As a result of this study, a mathematical model was developed for the calculation of wave attenuation and wave set-up on a shallow reef, using the incident waves in the ocean as boundary conditions. This paper discusses the general behavior of waves approaching a shallow reef and presents some essential characteristics of the mathematical model. The study is limited to waves approaching the shoreline at right angles. The results of this study can be extended to breakwaters with wide, submerged berms.