Investigating the Influence of Yarn Density and Seam Construction on the Seam Performance of Woven Linen Fabric

Abstract

The impacts of fabric thread density and seam structure on woven linen fabric seam slippage and tensile strength characteristics have been investigated. Two different types of woven fabric samples were produced and prepared for the sewing process, with various levels of fabric thread density. The samples are sewn with different seams (superimposed, lapped, and bound), stitch density (10, 12, and 14 stitches/inch), and stitch type (single needle lock stitch, double needle lock stitch and double needle chain stitch). Fabric tensile characteristics, seam slippage, and seam strength in both the warp and weft directions have been tested and evaluated. The research reveals that seam strength and seam slippage are dependent on the seam type, stitch type, and SPI. Furthermore, we found that the fabric’s EPI and PPI had a considerable impact on its seam performance, with greater EPI and PPI resulting in better seam performance.