On the Alber equation for shoaling water waves

Author:

Kluczek MateuszORCID,Andrade DavidORCID,Stiassnie Michael

Abstract

The problem of unidirectional shoaling of a water-wave field with a narrow energy spectrum is treated by using a new Alber equation. The stability of the linear stationary solution to small non-stationary disturbances is analysed; and numerical solutions for its subsequent long-distance evolution are presented. The results quantify the physics which causes the gradual decay in the probability of freak-wave occurrence, when moving from deep to shallow coastal waters.

Funder

Israel Science Foundation

Publisher

Cambridge University Press (CUP)

Subject

Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics

Cited by 1 articles. 订阅此论文施引文献 订阅此论文施引文献,注册后可以免费订阅5篇论文的施引文献,订阅后可以查看论文全部施引文献

1. Freak waves caused by reflection;Coastal Engineering;2021-12

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