Statistical properties of the kinematics and dynamics of a random gravity-wave field

Abstract

The probability density function and the first three statistical moments of the velocity, acceleration and dynamic pressure are obtained for a Gaussian, stationary, homogeneous, random gravity-wave field in deep water, using infinitesimal wave solutions. It is shown that the velocity, acceleration and pressure are non-Gaussian. While the horizontal accelerations and vertical velocity component are of zero mean and unskewed, the dynamic pressure, vertical acceleration and horizontal velocity components are skewed and have non-zero mean.