Refraction-diffraction model for weakly nonlinear water waves

Author:

Liu Philip L.-F.,Tsay Ting-Kuei

Abstract

A model equation is derived for calculating transformation and propagation of Stokes waves. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation, which is a nonlinear Schrödinger equation with variable coefficients, describes the forward-scattering wavefield. The model equation is used to investigate the wave convergence over a semicircular shoal. Numerical results are compared with experimental data (Whalin 1971). Nonlinear effects, which generate higher-harmonic wave components, are definitely important in the focusing zone. Mean free-surface set-downs over the shoal are also computed.

Publisher

Cambridge University Press (CUP)

Subject

Mechanical Engineering,Mechanics of Materials,Condensed Matter Physics

Reference14 articles.

1. Tsay, T.-K. & Liu, P. L.-F. 1982 Numerical solution of water wave refraction and diffraction problems in the parabolic approximation.J. Geophys. Res. 87,7932–7940.

2. Radder, A. C. 1979 On the parabolic equation method for water-wave propagation.J. Fluid Mech. 95,159–176.

3. Berkhoff, J. C. W. , Booy, N. & Radder, A. C. 1982 Verification of numerical wave propagation models for simple harmonic linear water waves.Coastal Engng 6,255–279.

4. Djordjevic, V. D. & Redekopp, L. G. 1978 On the development of packets of surface gravity waves moving over an uneven bottom.Z. angew. Math. Phys. 29,950–962.

5. Liu, P. L.-F. & Tsay, T.-K. 1983b On weak reflection of water waves.J. Fluid Mech. 131,59–71.

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