Affiliation:
1. Department of Intervention Research in Exercise Training German Sport University Cologne Cologne Germany
2. Department of Sport and Management IST University of Applied Sciences Duesseldorf Germany
3. Department of Movement and Training Science University of Wuppertal Wuppertal Germany
4. Institute of Exercise Training and Sport Informatics German Sport University Cologne Germany
Abstract
ABSTRACTGrip and elbow flexor strength and endurance are crucial performance surrogates in competitive climbing. Thus, we examined the effects of blood flow restricted (BFR) climbing on grip and elbow flexor performance. Fifteen trained climbers (8 females; 20.8 ± 7.0 yrs; 1.72 ± 0.08 m; 63.0 ± 9.7 kg; 21.7 ± 2.7 IRCRCA grade) were either assigned to the intervention (BFR) or control (noBFR) group, using the minimization method (Strata: age, height, body mass, gender, and IRCRA grade). While BFR was used during low‐intensity climbing training (2‐times 10 min/session; 3‐times/week), noBFR followed identical training protocols without BFR over 5 weeks. BFR of the upper limb was applied via customized pneumatic cuffs (occlusion pressure: 120 ± 23 mmHg, 75%; occlusion pressure). Endurance and strength performances were assessed via one‐handed rung pulling (GripSTRENGTH), one‐handed bent arm lock off at 90° (ArmSTRENGTH), static‐intermitted finger hang (GripENDURANCE), and bent arm hang (ArmENDURANCE). Bayesian credible intervals revealed increased GripENDURANCE (+21 s (95% credible interval: −2 to 43 s)) and ArmENDURANCE +11 s (−5 to 27 s); adaptations via BFR. In contrast, GripSTRENGTH +4 N (−40 to 48 N) and ArmSTRENGTH +4 N (−68 to 75 N) were not affected by the BFR intervention. Fifteen cumulative sessions of BFR application with a cumulative total BFR load of 5 h over a 5 weeks macrocycle remarkably increased grip and elbow flexor endurance. Thus, BFR might serve as a promising means to improve relevant performance surrogates in trained climbers.
Funder
the German Federal Institute of Sports Science
Subject
Orthopedics and Sports Medicine,Physical Therapy, Sports Therapy and Rehabilitation,General Medicine