1. Randle Holme, Academy of Armory (Chester, 1688), Book III, Ch. V, p. 234. Holme describes a `jump' as `a loose coat' which `extends to the thighs, is open or buttoned down before, open or slit up behind half way; the sleeves reach to the wrist having the turn up sometime round, then with hound's ears and another time square' (Book III, Ch. III, p. 96).
2. As Ruth Hentschell has observed, it was `a stock emblem for representing the absurd sartorial habits of the English'. R. Hentschell, `A Question of Nation: Foreign Clothes on the English Subject', in Clothing Culture, 1350-1650, ed. by C. Richardson (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2004), p. 55.
3. Anon., England's Vanity: or the Voice of God against the Monstrous Sin of Pride in Dress & Apparel (London, 1683), p. 132.
4. A Taste for Newfangledness: The Destructive Potential of Novelty in Early Modern England
5. M. Hunter and A. Gregory, An Astrological Diary of the Seventeenth Century: Samuel Jeake of Rye 1652-1699 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1988), pp. 117-118 (hereafter Diary). Jeake had smallpox when he was fourteen (Diary, p. 89).