‘They tell me they were in fashion last year’: Samuel and Elizabeth Jeake and Clothing Fashions in Late Seventeenth-Century London and Rye

Author:

Tankard Danae

Abstract

This article examines high fashion culture in late seventeenth-century London and Rye, focusing on the ways that Rye merchant, Samuel Jeake (1652–1699), and his wife, Elizabeth (1667–1736), engaged with the London fashion market at a time when the transmission of fashion styles was still primarily by word of mouth. Both Samuel and Elizabeth were intensely concerned to appear fashionable in provincial Rye. Correspondence between Samuel and Elizabeth and their London relatives shows how fashion information was being communicated between London and Rye and the speed with which clothing fashions changed in the capital. The discussion of Samuel and Elizabeth’s engagement with fashion is framed by an analysis of contemporary satirical literature which takes the supposed obsession of the English with fashion as its theme.

Publisher

Edinburgh University Press

Subject

History,General Business, Management and Accounting

Reference67 articles.

1. Randle Holme, Academy of Armory (Chester, 1688), Book III, Ch. V, p. 234. Holme describes a `jump' as `a loose coat' which `extends to the thighs, is open or buttoned down before, open or slit up behind half way; the sleeves reach to the wrist having the turn up sometime round, then with hound's ears and another time square' (Book III, Ch. III, p. 96).

2. As Ruth Hentschell has observed, it was `a stock emblem for representing the absurd sartorial habits of the English'. R. Hentschell, `A Question of Nation: Foreign Clothes on the English Subject', in Clothing Culture, 1350-1650, ed. by C. Richardson (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2004), p. 55.

3. Anon., England's Vanity: or the Voice of God against the Monstrous Sin of Pride in Dress & Apparel (London, 1683), p. 132.

4. A Taste for Newfangledness: The Destructive Potential of Novelty in Early Modern England

5. M. Hunter and A. Gregory, An Astrological Diary of the Seventeenth Century: Samuel Jeake of Rye 1652-1699 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1988), pp. 117-118 (hereafter Diary). Jeake had smallpox when he was fourteen (Diary, p. 89).

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